Off Yer Rocker

...and so it begins.

This is one of the rocker boxes that will be used for the motor in Skankweasel, no point in showing the pair of them as they are pretty similar. The rockers will be lightened around the adjuster boss and ball pin areas only, the rest will be blended where needed and polished in accordance with Dwain Taylor's suggestions. The rocker spindle shown here, is the early type without the "O" ring on the drive side end, it also shows slight mushrooming on that end, so it will be replaced.

Realised, when it was too late, that it would have been easier to slacken the adjuster nuts off while they were still in the boxes. Rather than risk damage by clamping the rockers in the vice, I slipped a 2 metre length of 12 mm tube through the pivot bore, this provided enough leverage to allow the nuts to be loosened without damage or drama.

Rubber Suspenders

Had an idea to make up some rubber mounts for a while, and this is as good a time as any.

The holes in the rear mudguard were drilled 8.2 mm as it was known they were going to be pilotting the 1/2" Q Max hole punch. Punching the hole gives a lot cleaner edge to the hole, not like the hexagon a regular drill can give through thin shit.

The grommets are straight forward 1/2" (12.5 mm) wiring grommets, the top hats have been turned to match the bore diameter and thickness less 0.5 mm, just to snug up the fit.

Punching through......

..................... knocked out..................

................bushed in.

The guard weighs less than the bracketry, so it's difficult to see it not being alright.

I like this shot.

Rear Guard Taking Up A Position

Skankweasel went out for a little trip to Martin's shop yesterday to get a little bit of TIG action going on the rear mudguard mounts. Had these bits water jet cut, nice finish, cleaner than Laser but worth the extra? I'm not so sure.

The brackets were cut with a 10 degree angle to allow for the curve of the guard. The tabs were welded on to the bracket after being bolted to the guard, to get the angle.

The bottom mount bolts to two 3/4" long bosses welded to the frame cross member. Not a thing I'm normally down with, but this rear section has had so much abuse over the years that it's not really heresy to weld extras to it.

The top mount is the same bracketry but picks up on the standard rear guard tapped holes.

There's still the rear loop/stay to sort out, and as it's aluminium a bit of rubber mounting will help.

Rear Wheel.........................Sorted!

Notice the cut axle plate, more scars from a previous life.

About 10 days ago I posted the previous back wheel, showing the cracks down the centre of the Morad rim. I phoned the guy who supplied it and he said send it back, well I didn't send it, I took it back the other day. He was genuinely shocked when he saw it, his second in command took me aside and said "He will go ballistic after you leave" doesn't want his name attached to bad quality, even if it's not his fault.

It was a good job I went, rather than have a new rim fitted to the KTM hub and still have the inherent problems with the brake anchor, I came away with this hub and D.I.D. rim. Much better, this has got a flat brake plate and adaptable anchor setup, the great slab of boiler plate you can see hanging down was already on there, but it's eminently workable now.

This hub is aluminium rather than magnesium as the KTM one was, but it's smaller, neater and all around better looking.

Not Good At All

Open 'em up for a better look.

Not best pleased with this.....................

Fitted a couple of spindle spacers the other night and happened to notice this. Now I ain't no wheel builder, but I'd say it was over tightened spokes. I have heard that Akront are sometimes not as round as they could be, but how far must a rim be out to warrant this?

Contacted the man and he's being reasonable about it, so no names and no pack drill.

Making A Mockery Of It (Part II)

Couldn't help but put the empty cases and gearbox in. Looking damn fine even if I do say so myself, and Micky looks happy in the back there. The frame was initially sprayed with a zinc galvanising treatment, the candy red was an afterthought and a bit of an experiment, it's growing on me, and will probably be along these lines at the finish.

Austrian Lightweight Joins The Campaign

Got hold of this KTM rear hub to hold up the arse end on Skankweasel. The hub and brake plate are made of magnesium, the rim is a WM3 x 18" Akront "Green Label" the whole wheel as seen here minus the spindle comes in at 7.05 kg, or 

15 1/2  lbs in old money.

The brake anchor position may take some thinking about to get the operating pivot 'round to a more conventional position, but that ain't a show stopper.

A Little More Shed In The Front

Scored this off of that well known auction site, only bid...........result.

A six inch conical hub from the 73/74 TR5T Adventurer, and B50 MX, it's a natural really matches the yokes and it's still Meriden. Odd that it's forty years old, only 20 years newer than the rigid frame yet it will still be damned as modern shit.

The pictures don't really show how compact it is.

3.711 kilos, which I reckon is around 8lb 2oz, is pretty light for a complete assembly I'd a thought. Haven't got a standard single sided hub set up to compare it against but a saving of 5lb can't be too optimistic.